Shop owner Syarifah Banun (right) tends her store in Tanah Abang Market, Central Jakarta on October 27th. The 47-year-old of Yemeni descent started the business in 2002 after losing property and businesses in the 1997-1998 financial crises. [Ismira Lutfia Tisnadibrata/Khabar]

Eri Ismar, 30, browsed from one stall to another looking for the best pilgrimage souvenir bargain at Central Jakarta's Tanah Abang Market on October 27th, before settling on tea sets and trays at one of the stores and stalls selling haj merchandise, Arab-related accessories and produce.

"My mother asked me to buy these items to serve zamzam water," he told Khabar Southeast Asia, referring to the Muslim holy water that is a must-have gift for family and friends upon returning from the pilgrimage.

"This is my third time shopping for haj souvenirs to prepare for my mother's return," he added.

Another shopper, Yaris Irawan, was looking for more zamzam water to add to the litres he already purchased ahead of his parents' October 30th return.

"I have bought 15 litres of zamzam water and about 30 kg of dates. I will ship them to Yogyakarta where my parents live," he told Khabar. "I have spent roughly Rp 1.5m ($150) for these extra souvenirs that will be added to the items my parents bring from Mecca."

With strict travel luggage weight limits, haj pilgrims can still hand out plenty of souvenirs to extended family and friends by buying them at home.

Holy water and dates from the Middle East are the most popular haj-related items in Tanah Abang, Southeast Asia's largest textile and garment wholesale market.

Shoppers can also choose from raisins, kacang arab (chickpeas), prayer mats and beads, bottles for zamzam water, olive oil, and Middle Eastern cosmetic or toiletries, said Sarwono, owner of a small shop in the market.

A flourishing business

Using a bank loan as capital, Sarwono opened his shop five years ago, following his younger brother who already has two market shops.

"My brother told me the business prospects were good. I have paid off my bank loan, and now I can save at least Rp. 500,000 ($50) a day," Sarwono said.

With Muslims making up 98% of Indonesia's 240 million inhabitants, the business provides jobs and livelihoods for many.

Syarifah Banun, owner of popular area shop Al Barokah (Blessing), employs 37 shopkeepers. The Yemeni descendant started her business in 2002 after losing her property and car rental businesses in Asia's 1997-1998 financial crises.

"I was the first one to open a full shop here, although there were already some street vendors selling these items," Syarifah told Khabar. The business soon boomed and other stores opened, with customers coming in year-round. Indonesian Muslims also perform umroh (minor pilgrimage) most of the year.

"Business would slow down a bit for three months after the haj season, but as people started to depart for umroh, things would pick up again and stay steady for the rest of the year," she said. Syarifah hand picks her merchandise from regular shopping trips to the Middle East.

Market gets a facelift

The haj souvenir section of Tanah Abang, located at the corner of Kyai Haji Mas Mansyur and Kebon Jati streets, was long notorious for its traffic congestion and street vendors.

An August crackdown by city administration on illegal parking and kiosks helped ease traffic flow, but also slowed business.

"Some of my customers are still unfamiliar with the new traffic flow, which deters them from parking here," Sarwono said. He experienced a 3 to 4% drop in sales during haj this year.

Syarifah said parking restrictions slowed her business as well, but she remains confident.

"We have our own loyal customers, even those from other parts of Indonesia who shop in bulk. I believe each of the stores here has its own fortunes," she said.