Association of Malay chefs promotes detail, safety

Fatal wedding feast spurs formation of group to spread food safety tips, raise standards.

By Grace Chen for Khabar Southeast Asia in Kuala Lumpur

November 08, 2013
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The Association of Malay Culinarists formed in response to tragedy – but hopes are high that it will also lift standards, boost careers, and instill pride.

  • Members of the Association of Malay Culinarists start their first meeting, at Kuala Lumpur's Royale Chulan Hotel, with a prayer. The group was created by chefs to increase food safety awareness and raise professional standards after a fatal food poisoning incident in Kedah. [Grace Chen/Khabar]

    Members of the Association of Malay Culinarists start their first meeting, at Kuala Lumpur's Royale Chulan Hotel, with a prayer. The group was created by chefs to increase food safety awareness and raise professional standards after a fatal food poisoning incident in Kedah. [Grace Chen/Khabar]

On October 2nd, four people died after a Malay wedding feast in northern Kedah state from consuming salmonella-contaminated chicken. On October 6th, an advisory body of executive chefs and others from Kuala Lumpur's top hotels and catering entities met for the first time at the Royale Chulan Hotel in an effort to improve professional cooking standards.

The association's core goals are to spread awareness of food safety, educate industry professionals, and increase marketing and business opportunities, Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre Executive Chef Hisham Jaafar said. Anyone with a culinary arts diploma is eligible to join.

An avoidable tragedy

Examining circumstances of the tragic wedding feast, Kedah state Health Department Director Ismail Abu Taat told the New Straits Times that improperly cleaned chicken was sent to the host one day before the wedding. It was not cooked until 4pm the next day, when cooks removed only spoiled sections of the poultry before putting the rest into the cooking pot.

"Due to the highly perishable nature of food," Abu said, "we must ask questions like how long can we keep fresh ingredients and cooked meals before it is considered unsafe for consumption. Those in the food industry must be aware [of] how food can be contaminated, and know how to prevent it."

Razaha Harun, association advisor and executive chef for Brahim's Airline Catering, which services over 30 international airlines, said industry practitioners must not neglect food preparation basics such as hygiene and food storage.

"Food preparation and storage have changed tremendously over the past 50 years. Back then, vegetables could be plucked fresh from the home garden and food was immediately consumed right after cooking," Razaha told Khabar Southeast Asia. Today it is normal to consume days-old vegetables transported from farm to city and cooked food prepared days in advance.

Firdaus Omar, former executive chef of Istana Hotel and current manager of Al'Qina Cuisine catering company, says the association should also raise food integrity issues.

"The number of young chefs who know how to make demi-glace has dwindled," Firdaus said, referring to a rich brown sauce used as a base for other sauces in French cooking. "Most resort to the easy way out of using industrial pre-mixes. It is convenient when you are cooking for 50,000 people, but do we know what kind of ingredients are in these instant solutions?"

Good for business

Association committee member Zabidi Ibrahim, executive chef of Kuala Lumpur's Little Circle restaurants, said the organisation will hold a January recruitment drive. Membership will enable young chefs to mingle with senior industry executives, potentially fast-tracking their careers.

Meanwhile, Zabidi and association president Jasman Saidin will lead the educational efforts of the association by forming an academy specialising in Malay cuisine.

"As Jasman specialises in Minang cooking, we will start off with that first," Zabidi told Khabar. "Later on, we will expand the syllabus to cover Malay dishes from the other states. The onus will be to help young chefs differentiate the ingredients used, as Malay dishes require a lot of spices."

Such educational efforts will boost Malaysia's goal of becoming a regional hub for Muslim travelers. "With more knowledgeable chefs there is a possibility of teaming up with the Department of Islamic Development to make this a reality," Hisham said.

For instance, chefs can safeguard the halal designation by having a good knowledge of ingredients.

"Take the case when a dish calls for balsamic vinegar. This is not a halal condiment as it contains up to 3% alcohol. Halal specifications only allows up to 1%. A chef who does not know this may run afoul of the halal ruling," he said.

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